Diary of a Madd Cyclist
| Salt Lake City-San Francisco 1,171 km 7 days |
|
The Gang
June 21, 2008: The Arrival On arrival we meet our tour guide, Leo, and shortly after we head to dinner in the LSV (Large Support
Vehicle). On the way Bob has a few kind words for Leo Training for this trip required long hours of physical exertion which I skipped in favour of a lighter, easier ride. So most of my preparation for the trip involved spending hours at bike shop acquiring exotic parts for my bike in exchange for my eternal soul. I avoided any non-essentials that might slow me down but, after much brow beating by Leo et al, I purchased a bicycle helmet. I didn't realize that there was still more to come. Now Leo tells me I had better get some sunglasses or "You'll go blind". (Where had I heard that before?) The sunglasses did have one advantage. The rear view mirror Mike had provided could now be mounted on my
new glasses. I was somewhat relieved not have to drill another mounting hole in my skull. I was starting to
feel like Inspector Gadget. An inflatable trench coat and I'd be all set (Don't tell Mike, but
I actually found the mirror kind of useful)
Even though it's early morning you can already feel the heat. After a few delays, (the hotel hallways proved too much for one of my old tubulars) we were off to the Salt Flats. Riding on the Interstate was excellent with 2 meter wide shoulders. The landscape was spectacular, no trees, no shade, no nothing. I'd never seen such desolation, except during news coverage of the Mars Lander. Usually a nice breeze would be a welcome experience but in Nevada it's like opening
an oven door (without the pleasant aroma). Leo comments that it's really not that hot. I quietly
wonder if Leo is like those animals you see on the Discovery Channel that thrive next to volcanic
vents. In Wendover we stay at the Golden Nugget Casino. Mike and Leo share a room but not Bob and I, "'cause we're snooty and homophobic."
They don't report UV index Nevada, they must figure anyone who spends time outside must be nuts
so why bother. I wasn't thorough with the sunscreen yesterday and there's pulsating glow emmanating from certain
areas of my body. I'll probably have to be stored underground in a lead containment vessel
until the next millennium.
After the Salt Flats I was looking forward to some hills but the 830 meter climb we faced today was about seven times higher than anything back home. After a small climb out of Wendover we continue on a long downhill straight-away to the foot of the mountains. A loud twang echoes as Leo's spoke snaps and Leo's ride is over for the day. Mike and I continue on, but something isn't right. My bike seems heavy. Are giant magnets pulling on my bike? There must some secret physics experiment nearby. I look behind me, damn, this downhill is an optical illusion and we're actually going uphill. Years of watching the 20 Minute Workout may not have been sufficient training for this. I decide to relax my pace Knowing that Mike, like the Energizer Bunny, will keep going and going... The road steepens and the shoulders narrow to as little as 15 cm making it difficult to keep off the rumble strip. As I get to the top of each rise I wonder if it's the summit, only to see another steep climb ahead. My knee starts to feel wobbly but I press on. Out of Gatorade I finally reach the summit. Shortly after dismounting I realize my wobbly knee was actually a loose crank. After some repairs I'm back on the road. A steep downhill is not as relaxing as I hoped. Debris on the road forces me to do a lot of braking to keep the speed under 60 kph. We finish the day in Elko, staying at the Gold Country Inn and Casino. We meet in Mike & Leo's room to plan the next days ride. Bob decides it's a good time to have the watermelon. In the ensuing melee the watermelon is eviscerated and Bob has managed to use every clean towel in the room. Mike and Leo are left to share a wash cloth for tomorrows shower. Clearly Bob will never be asked to host a Ginsu commercial.
We were waking up way before the time when banks open but my teammates seem unaffected by the early mornings. They mention something about years of training by something called a wife and children. Hmmm, what's that? Despite drinking close to 2 gallons of lime Gatorade (blehhh) each day, I was waking up hourly each night with a dry mouth. The bags under my eyes could be used to carry groceries. Today we do a short ride so we can stay in *scenic* Battle Mountain. It does remind me of some the more scenic ghettos I've been to. Dilapidated, closed and condemned buildings make up most of the main drag. Much of the dinner conversation revolves around trying figure out why anyone would actually choose to live here. Despite the neon orange facade the food at the El Aguila Mexican restaurant is really good. Day 4: Road Kill Cafe As we pile on the mileage, we learn much about the wildlife of Nevada from the scattered remains on the side of the road. Hare, snake, bird, furry thing, etc. There's so much it's hard to believe it is accidental. Could these animals have thrown themselves into the paths of on-coming trucks to end their bleak existence? We spot another plume of dust in the distance and Bob comments that the scenery reminds him of a horror movie. He worries aloud that snake like creatures will come up from the ground and bite him. "It could happen." We pass another road sign warning "State Prison", "Do not pick up hitchhikers". Perhaps we should stop by the local Guns 'R' Us for supplies. We stay at Sturgeons Hotel Casino in Lovelock. It seems the primary forms of accommodation in Nevada are casinos and state prisons. Looking at the patrons playing the slots, blank stares, a smoke and a drink at hand, Mike and I wonder who is better off. I feel slightly out of place as we walk through the casino in our bicycle gear. Not Mike, he seems to subsist on a diet of beer and peanuts. I think he was raised by bartenders. Day 5: What's Going to Fall Off Next? It's another hot, like Africa hot, day. The riding is going so smoothly today I decide to take the scenic route through Fernley, okay, okay, I missed the turn. Through the smoky haze from the California fires I can see several snow capped peaks. It reminds me of ice cream cones and I start to salivate like a dog hearing a dinner bell. A swig of warm lime Gatorade cures that. Another road sign "Congested Area", "Do not discharge firearms". I look around but can't see any sign of human habitation. Maybe they didn't see the sign and they all shot each other. Taking the scenic route had delayed me and I ride solo into Carson City. Then my pedal falls off. First the crank, and now the pedal. What's going to fall off next? Maybe I shouldn't go to the bathroom. Luckily I find a bike shop just around the corner. Day 6: The Climb We finally reach the Nevada/California border with ridiculously large mountains in the way. The roads are narrow with no shoulder but at least it's cooler. Trees line the roads with streams and waterfalls at almost every turn. Most of the flat sections are optical illusions and are actually uphill. After a couple of hours riding uphill I start to long for the desert. Traffic whizzes by on many narrow blind corners making it difficult to enjoy this ride. Finally I reach Carson's Pass, I inhale the mountain air only to choke as smoke from the California fires permeates the air. I've run out of Gatorade but manage to get some water at the ranger station. The ranger says he does doesn't normally provide supplies but I guess he figured it was easier than having to drag my emaciated corpse down the mountain later. He tells me Mike was by 20 minutes earlier. The vultures that followed me through the desert are gone now, replaced by a dark cloud.
The temperature suddenly drops and the rain starts. I keep going.
I turn off onto Mormon Immigrant Trail. I have the road virtually to myself, a nice respite from the traffic. Heavily forested, it's eerily quiet, until I hear some loud claps nearby. There's none of those not-so-comforting "Do not Discharge Firearms" road signs, my pace quickens. I didn't realize the Pass was only the 60% point, there are still 4 more large hills. At least they were followed by some fast downhills also. I run out of water again but conveniently a driver stops to ask me directions. Before he realizes my directions are more useless than Britney Spears name on a Mensa application, I've taken all his water. After a final agonizing 250 meter climb I ride into Pollock Pines. When I arrive at the hotel I'm the only one to finish today (and get rained on). Mike had bike problems and I'm really not sure what Bob and Leo were doing. Day 7: Downhill To The Finish By this time Leo has noticed that I frequently sprint ahead, so he and Bob leave early. Leo had frequently reminded us to keep "fueling the engine" but his gravy and biscuits breakfast gave him some extra wind. Sprinting ahead was just a survival instinct Besides Leo's bodily functions I learned many other things. Like, I have the wrong gears on my bike for climbing mountains. Even though it's mostly downhill & flat today, I'm still feeling the effects from yesterday's climb. I've learned that when abused, my body, like any finely tuned machine, will want to fall down in the bushes and throw-up. And lastly I learned that a burrito at the finish line tastes amazing.Thanks Leo. Kudos to Bob a recently reformed couch potato, who can now put any 85 year-old with a walker to shame. Thanks to Leo for planning, organizing, the van and bringing all supplies (especially the lime Gatorade) And thanks to Mike For keeping the rest of us humble. Would I do it again? In a heartbeat...
|
